Each Culinary Artist Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Leading Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.

Robert Anderson MD
Robert Anderson MD

Lena van der Meer is a seasoned journalist covering local news and culture in Zwolle, with a passion for community storytelling.